🔗 Share this article Each Cook Should Study Here’: Modest Turkish Restaurant Earns Fourth on Ranking of London’s Top Restaurants. When assembling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee familiar high-end names. But, situated prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant part of north London. An Shocking Recognition This little Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has made the owners utterly shocked. “I’m utterly shocked,” states a family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble shop securing such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list. The Appeal of Simplicity The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner. A Namesake Offering: Tantuni In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant certainly excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent quality. The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside. The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony. Beyond the Classic Tantuni There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”. For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced flavour. Rising Above the Giants Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations. While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure. A Creed of Heart The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner. “I believe what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.” The philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”. A Story of Hard Work Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son. A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication. “Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects. An Achievement for the Culture The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary honour.